1440s Italian dress

This dress was sewn in 2006 to the performance in the Lutsk castle. The source of inspiration was the picture by Fra Filippo Lippi `Portrait of a woman with a man at a casement`, ca.1440 (Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York).

The underdress gamurra is made of dark green thin cloth. Bodice and cuffs of the sleeves is lined in white linen. The upper part of the sleeves is stitched with vertical folds, high cuffs are laced in pairs. Pattern of a skirt of the ghamurra is a wide trapeze. The seams at the bottom of the armhole are not sewn for a possibility of rasing the hands. 

       

 

The upper dress cioppa is made of maroon wool cloth. The upper part of the skirt is lined with thin sea green wool. The hem, sleeves and bodice are lined with green linen. Doubtless, the most interesting and the most difficult thing was making of vertical folds. After studying a large number of paintings I decided to make this part of the dress with a horisontal seam. The upper part of the skirt is dagged and stitched in place to the ready-made bodice. Tubular pleats are slightly stuffed with woolen hards. The shape of the cioppa sleeves is very distinctive for the 1440-50s Italian costume. Usually, arms were passed through the long vertical slits and sleeves loosely hung from behind. 

 

     

 

A little later, I decorated the dress with diamond-shaped glass beads. And was added some accessories - a belt with a buckle and a hat, also made of maroon wool and embroidered on the edge by river pearls. 

 

 

Anna Vasilchenko from the ensemble of ancient and folk music Kings & Beggars is the new owner of this costume since 2012. The dress received an even more intense life and a beautiful embodiment in new creative ideas. The author of these studio photos is Arina Pienko. 

 

 

Creator - Natalya Skornyakova.